Tomatoes showing tell-tale symptoms of late blight. Photo: Downtowngal, Wikimedia Commons
New strains of tomato late blight (Phytophthora infestans) appeared out of Mexico, homeland of the tomato, in the late 1990s and, by 2010, had spread all over the world, taking both seed suppliers and gardeners by surprise.
This is an old disease, the one that caused the Irish potato famine in the late 1840s (the same disease also attacks potatoes), and gardeners thought that the disease was pretty much under control, since most commonly grown potato and tomato varieties of the time had some resistance to the original strains. But the new strains that appeared, notably US-22 and US-23, are much more virulent than the older ones and particularly harmful to tomatoes. In fact, in climates with fairly humid summers, where late blight is most prevalent, late blight of the tomato is now that plant’s most devastating disease.
You can recognize late blight by its symptoms. Notably, it shows up in late summer (it’s not called “late blight” for nothing!). At first, brown marks appear on the lower leaves and grow quickly in size. White cottony growths may appear under the affected leaves … if the air is humid. The disease rises successively upwards, affecting leaf after leaf. Often stems also turn brown. Worse, just when the fruit is almost ripe, soft brown or black depressions form on it and it begins to rot. Soon it is only good for the trash.
Resistant Varieties
There are now, however, tomatoes with genetic resistance to late blight. Don’t panic: these are not OGMs. Natural resistance to the new strains of the disease has been found in certain tomatoes, notably in wild species, and has been bred into garden varieties by the same old-fashioned methods our ancestors used to create heirloom tomatoes like ‘Brandywine’ (which is terribly susceptible to late blight, by the way). Just buy and sow varieties that are resistant to the disease and follow normal tomato cultural directives (grow them in full sun, practice crop rotation, leave space for aeration, water the roots without moistening the leaves, etc.) and you ought to be able to get a bumper crop of disease-free tomatoes.
Here are over 50 late blight-resistant tomatoes to choose from.
- ‘Berry’
- ‘Brandywise’
- ‘Buffalosun’
- ‘Cherry Bomb’
- ‘Clou OP’
- ‘Cloudy Day’
- ‘Crimson Crush’
- ‘Damsel’
- ‘Defiant PhR’
- ‘Eva Purple Ball’
- ‘Fandango’
- ‘Fantastico’
- ‘Fantasio
- ‘Ferline
- ‘Foronti’
- ‘Golden Currant’
- ‘Golden Sweet’
- ‘Indigo Rose’
- ‘Invincible’
- ‘Iron Lady’
- ‘Jasper’
- ‘Juliet’
- ‘JTO-545’
- ‘Latah’
- ‘Legend’
- ‘Lemon Drop’
- ‘Lizzano’
- ‘Losetto
- ‘Matt’s Wild Cherry’
- ‘Manalucie’
- ‘Manyel’
- ‘Merlice’
- ‘Mountain Fresh Plus’
- ‘Mountain Magic’
- ‘Mountain Merit’
- ‘Mountain Rouge’
- ‘Mountain Spring’
- ‘Mountain Supreme’
- ‘Mr. Stripey’ (‘Tigrella’)
- ‘Oh Happy Day’
- ‘Old Brooks’
- ‘Plum Regal’
- ‘Pruden’s Purple’
- ‘Quadro’
- ‘Red Alert’
- ‘Red Pearl’
- ‘Resi’
- ‘Romello’
- ‘Rote Murmel’
- ‘Rote Zora’
- ‘Santa’
- ‘Stellar’
- ‘Striped Stuffer’
- ‘Sweetheart of the Patio’
- ‘Tommy Toe’
- ‘Tropic’
- ‘Wapsipinicon Peach’
Or Buy Disease-Resistant Plants
If you’re not into growing tomatoes from seed, look for tomato plants resistant to late blight in local nurseries at planting-out time. Many still offer more disease sensitive varieties than resistant ones (old plant habits die hard!), but pretty much all of them carry at least one or two late blight resistant tomato plants.
Bring Your List
I suggest you print this list or put it on your smart phone. You’ll want to have with you the next time you shop for tomato seeds or plants.
For more information on tomato diseases, read Disease-Resistant Tomatoes.
Article updated from one published on March 6, 2016.
Aw cuss! I normally do not worry about such matters because the tomatoes I prefer are not bothered much by such disease, and the garden is in a semi-arid climate. For the first time in very many years, I am growing one variety (‘Delicious’) that is susceptible to rot, and I am doing so in spot that is not as arid as the original garden (with a creek and automated irrigation nearby).
This is a huge problem here because of the very humid climate.
Any tips on growing tomatoes in pots? Thanks!
Sure. BIG pots. Good drainage. Full sun. Fertilise regularly with just about any fertilizer.
But big pots are the true secret!