Gardening Houseplants Watering

Why Do Leaf Tips Turn Brown?

Drought-stressed spider plant (Chlorophytum comosum) with many brown leaf tips. Photo: Alavanta, depositphotos

Leaves that turn brown at the tip are a common problem with houseplants. Learn what causes this problem and how to fix it in this article.

By Larry Hodgson

One of the problems often encountered with houseplants is that the tip of the leaf turns brown, dries out and dies. This mainly occurs on plants with narrow pointed leaves, like dracenas (Dracaena spp.), cordylines (Cordyline spp.) and spider plants (Chlorophytum comosum), but also on certain plants with broader leaves, such as the prayer plants (Maranta spp.) and calatheas (Calathea spp.). Carnivorous plants too are prone to leaf tip necrosis (more on that point below).

Usually when a leaf tip turns brown, it’s because it didn’t receive its share of moisture while the rest of the leaf did. But why? 

There are several causes.

The 5 Most Common Causes of Brown Leaf Tips

1. Dry Air

This is a recurring problem during the winter months. If the air is dry, it’s because we heat our homes and heating reduces the air’s relative humidity. In an effort to compensate, the leaf releases massive amounts of water to transpiration, but as a result the plant’s sap doesn’t make as far as tip of the leaf simply because it is the part farthest from the cells that carry out the job of transporting sap. Since the tip is not receiving enough moisture, it tends to die.

Solution: Increase the humidity by whatever means you choose. Here are some suggestions.

2. Underwatering

Plant lacking water.
Insufficient watering, especially when repeated, can cause brown leaf tips. Ill.:

If you apply insufficient water to a plant when you water or if you don’t water often enough, the leaves will be stressed by a lack of water. And again, the leaf tip, being furthest from sap transportation vessels, suffers the most, leading to tip dieback.

Plants grown in hanging baskets are more prone to damage than other plants, not only because their foliage is more exposed to drying air (see point 1), but also baskets are typically equipped with only a very small saucer that overflows readily. Therefore, the caretaker (you) tends to water more cautiously, thus less abundantly, to prevent spillage, leading to a plant that is constantly suffering from water stress. And again, this kind of stress shows most obviously as damage to the tip of the leaves.

Solution: Water deeply enough to moisten the entire root ball and repeat when the soil is dry to the touch. If the soil dries out again only 4 or 5 days after watering, it would be wise to repot in a larger pot. As for hanging baskets, instead of watering them sparingly, take the basket down and literally soak it in water so that the soil can truly absorb the amount of water it needs.

3. Overwatering

Pot soaking in water.
Overwatering can also cause brown leaf tips. Ill.: Claire Tourigny

As bizarre as it may seem, too much water can just as easily cause brown leaf tips as too little. That’s because, if the soil in the pot is constantly wet, the roots begin to die back.* And if the roots die, less water will make it as far as the foliage … and once again, it’s the leaf tip that suffers most, causing dieback.

*There are few houseplants that are semi-aquatic: they prefer that their roots constantly soak in water, including umbrella sedge (Cyperus alternifolius). For these exceptions to the rule, overwatering simply isn’t possible and so won’t cause leaf tips to die.

For any houseplant that isn’t semi-aquatic, apply the Golden Rule of Watering: wait until the soil is dry before watering again. To see if watering is necessary, sink a finger into the growing mix up to the second joint. If it feels moist, don’t water. Wait until it does feel dry, then water abundantly, soaking the entire root ball. If the soil mix regularly goes from moist to just slightly dry, you’ll never overwater.

If you fear that your overwatering has gone too far and that the excess moisture has killed the roots of your plant (you’ll probably notice a smell of rot if you sniff the soil), things are more serious. Depot the plant, cut off any rotting roots, repot in fresh soil … and cross your fingers. When the root system of a plant has started to rot, it’s not always possible to save it.

4. Contaminated Soil

Over time, mineral salts coming from hard water, treated water and fertilizer accumulate in the soil of houseplants and gradually poison it, causing the roots to die back. If the roots die back, so will the leaves, because they won’t be receiving their full share of water. Again, the leaf tip takes the brunt of the damage. 

Solution: Leach the soil of your houseplants at least 2 or 3 times a year or put them outside for the summer so the rain can leach them. And repot regularly, changing the soil when you do so. And don’t use water softened using salts to water plants at all.

5. Overfertilization

Hands measuring fertilizer.
Overfertilizing can cause brown leaf tips. Photo: FotoPrivet, depositphotos

If you tend to fertilize too much, you create a situation similar to a soil contaminated with mineral salts: excess minerals tend to kill root tips leading to decreased water absorption and less water making it to the leaf tips, so they die back.

Solution: Learn to fertilize your plants with great care and never to excess. The usual rule for houseplants is to apply fertilizer at a quarter of the indicated rate and even then, only during the growing season.

Carnivorous Plants: A Special Case

Venus flytrap in a pot.
The Venus flytrap (Dionaea muscipula) is a example of a carnivorous plant that needs mineral-free water and soil. Photo: pxhidalgo,, depositphotos

Most carnivorous plants come from bogs that are extremely poor in minerals and will not tolerate the presence of minerals when you grow them indoors. If they are given minerals, their leaves die back. These plants need special care to remain green and healthy and that includes:

  • Watering with mineral-free water (rainwater or distilled water);
  • No application of fertilizer (very concentrated in minerals) to their soil;
  • Mineral-free soil (usually sphagnum moss). 

Chlorine Damage: Is It Really the 6th Cause?

Ill.: tezar tantular, NounProject

You will read almost everywhere (it’s one of the more pervasive garden myths) that some houseplants, especially dracenas, cordylines, spider plants, and carnivorous plants, are very susceptible the accumulation of chlorine in the soil and this not only leads to browning leaf tips, but is actually the main cause of leaf browning. If your water comes from any kind of municipal system, it probably contains chlorine, so gardeners are commonly given advice on how to avoid applying any chlorine to their plants.

However, this really isn’t a problem. Chlorine levels in drinking water are never at dangerous levels for plants and simply won’t cause damage. Nor is there any need to leave water in an open container for 24 hours before using it to allow chlorine to evaporate. That will in fact, concentrate the chlorine very slightly rather than reduce it, although that is of no importance.

Solution: Just use whatever water source of water is convenient to you (except when it is treated with salt-base water softeners which should never be used on plants). 

When the Damage is Done

Once the tip of a leaf is dead and brown, nothing will bring it back to life, regardless of treatment you give to the plant. If its presence bothers you, you simply cut off the dead tip with pruning shears or scissors. But I have an even more laidback solution. I suggest you apply the “15 pace rule”: step back 15 paces and you won’t see that the leaf tips are brown. Problem solved!

14 comments on “Why Do Leaf Tips Turn Brown?

  1. Realy best idea, i like that

  2. It seems like you’re sharing a comprehensive guide on troubleshooting and solving the issue of brown tips on houseplant leaves. Here’s a summary of the main causes and solutions:

    Common Causes of Brown Leaf Tips:
    Dry Air: Winter heating reduces humidity, causing leaves to release excess water and resulting in tip dieback.

    Solution: Increase humidity by using a humidifier or placing plants on trays filled with water and pebbles.
    Underwatering: Insufficient watering leads to leaf stress and tip dieback.

    Solution: Water deeply enough to moisten the entire root ball when the soil is dry to the touch.
    Overwatering: Constantly wet soil can lead to root rot, reducing water absorption and causing leaf tip damage.

    Solution: Follow the Golden Rule of Watering – wait until the soil is dry before watering again.
    Contaminated Soil: Mineral salts from hard water or fertilizers accumulate and poison the soil, causing root dieback and affecting leaf health.

    Solution: Leach the soil by flushing it with water occasionally and repot regularly using fresh soil.
    Overfertilization: Excessive fertilization can lead to mineral buildup, affecting root health and causing leaf tip damage.

    Solution: Fertilize plants cautiously at a quarter of the recommended rate and only during the growing season.
    Special Cases:
    Carnivorous Plants: Require mineral-free water, soil, and no fertilizer to prevent leaf dieback.
    Chlorine Damage (Debunked): Chlorine in water from municipal sources is not a significant cause of leaf browning in plants.
    Understanding these causes and implementing the suggested solutions can help mitigate and prevent brown leaf tips on various houseplants, ensuring their health and vitality.

  3. But I do have a quick question about overwatering. Cannas are semi-aquatic in landscapes, but I suspect that they would be less tolerant of saturation if the water were not circulating, such as in a pot. Are they houseplants where winters are cooler, and do they tolerate overwatering?

    • I don’t think water circulation is a major problem. They grow in swamps with no moving water in the wild; water that certainly appears stagnant to me. However, water can be considerably cooler than soil indoors over the winter, so it would probably be better to grow them as terrestrial plants indoors in the winter.

      • Well, yes. I do not grow them as aquatic plants in containers, although they will eventually live on the edge of one of the streams in one of the landscapes. I just get the impression that they are more tolerant of overwatering than underwatering. I do not intend to overwater them, but I do tend to get negligent with potted plants, particularly as houseplants.

  4. ‘Overwatering’ is the one that most have difficulty understanding, even though it is somewhat common among houseplants. Unfortunately, it is more common in landscapes in arid regions where so-called ‘gardeners’ get much too generous with irrigation.

  5. Love your sense of humor Larry, shows that we should have fun gardening and of course thank you for educating us!

  6. I have been told recently in Penn State Master Gardener training that Fluoride can be a problem for many of these plants as it will build up in plant tissue over time and these same plants (Dracaena, spider plant etc.) are supposedly more sensitive to that than many other plants. We are also being told to let our water stand open 24 hours before using for the chlorine to volatilize so…? I am pretty sure with my spider plant it is a matter of inconsistent watering. :^)

    • I must admit I don’t agree with that. It used to be accepted that too much fluoride and chlorine harmed plants, but that was debunked a while back. I suspect your trainer is not terribly up to date.

      • Larry, could you point me toward a source on that? I don’t mind questioning our (recently) printed textbook or the numerous (American) .edu web sites that are still quoting that information if I could see information to the contrary. As a MG trainee much of this is new to me but I believe as you do in properly researched information. If this idea is being perpetuated incorrectly I want to question it with our instructors. Thank you – I enjoy your writing and frequent questioning of old ideas very much.

      • Thank you – reading on with the same site I found the fluoride issue seems to be a bit of a grey area but not something I am convinced is a problem and I certainly feel less guilty about the fact that I tend to be too lazy to let my water stand before using it. I haven’t found it to be an issue with the African violets I have been growing very successfully for years.

      • Personally, I think it is so minor that, unless there is a real problem with the water (in which case, fluoride probably won’t be the real problem, but some other mineral), it’s not worth worrying about.

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