A memory from a trip to central Mexico. In a small local restaurant, the owner, short of limes, goes to the back of his establishment, reaches out and picks two or three fruits which he immediately cuts into quarters to place on the table.

Photo: Jason Leung on Unsplash

Since then, lime has occupied a special place in our home. Squeezing a quarter over a tortilla or a soft taco transports us in our thoughts to this fabulous cuisine from another country, which we will never be able to do without. Privileged are those who benefit from the warm climate necessary to plant them in their yard. In northern gardens, the same lime tree would not make it past Thanksgiving dinner.

There is a glimmer of hope, however, because lime trees (Citrus aurantiifolia and C. latifolia) are small trees that can easily be grown in containers on the balcony and then overwintered indoors in the winter.

Squeezed in Its Pot

In the case of the lime tree, it is better to think smaller when it comes to the size of the container. The roots of citrus plants love to be crowded together and the plant is happy in a deep pot, with a diameter of 30 to 45 cm (1 to 1 ½ foot) and with drainage holes. In fact, you can grow a plant in the same pot for about fifteen years. Simply repot it in the same container. In its country of origin, lime is a small tree, 3 to 5 meters high (10 to 16 feet). The restricted size of the container also has the effect of limiting the growth of the plant.

For potting soil, look for a mix with a higher percentage of sand. Surprisingly, cactus potting soil is perfect. For fertilization, lime trees are particularly greedy for nitrogen. Look for a fertilizer that offers a roughly equal percentage of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium (ratio 1-1-1). An annual supply of iron is also recommended. Fertilize between mid-March and the end of October, following the manufacturer’s instructions.

Summer in the Sun

In summer, plants are placed outside in full sun, which implicitly indicates that the containers must be watered every day. A lime tree that lacks water rolls its leaves upwards. Beautiful contrast: a soil that does not retain water, but daily watering.

Winter in the Cool

In winter, the goal is to put the lime trees into semi-dormancy. Life indoors is a necessary passage, where the plant simply has to survive. To achieve this, choose the coolest room in the house (ideally 15oC (59 oF)), with windows facing south. Light and freshness. The plants will lose a few leaves, which is normal. Regular watering is required, but you must avoid drowning: that’s the main cause of lime tree mortality in winter. The soil must be allowed to dry out between waterings. In addition, the coolness, this false winter, is necessary to trigger flowering. Interesting.  

The flowering period of limes is just as delightful as the fruiting period. The scent of the flowers is absolutely captivating! Photo: Forest and Kim Starr on Wikimedia Commons

That’s all Great, but What About the Actual Limes?

Now that we know how to keep the plant alive, let’s see how to make it bloom and especially bear fruit. Let’s not lose sight of our main motivation: the Mexican fiesta. Lime trees respond to a natural cycle and bloom on their own when the temperature rises, a sign that spring is back. In northern gardens, this event begins in March or April. In theory, lime trees depend on insects for pollination, but in reality, they produce fruit, even if we refrain from playing the bee with a cotton swab. As a bonus, the scent of the flowers is sublime.

A small, well-stocked and well-maintained tree can produce about fifteen fruits. Also, citrus fruits produce more than they can support, so it is normal for some of the fruits to abort and fall to the ground. There is nothing to worry about in this phenomenon.

It should be noted that limes are mainly formed on the tips of the branches. If pruning is necessary, it will be in May, when the plants are taken outside, in order to allow the plant to form new shoots.

The excitement level rises a notch in the fall and winter, when the fruits are ripe for harvest. Then our household relives the Mexican journey with even greater realism.

We reach out, cut into quarters and place on the table…

Reach out, cut into wedges, and enjoy! Photo: Chandra Oh on Unsplash

Sign up for the Laidback Gardener blog and receive articles in your inbox every morning!

Julie Boudreau is a horticulturist who trained at the Institut de technologie agroalimentaire in Saint-Hyacinthe, Québec. She’s been working with plants for more than 25 years. She has published many gardening books and hosted various radio and television shows. She now teaches horticulture at the Centre de formation horticole of Laval. A great gardening enthusiast, she’s devoted to promoting gardening, garden design, botany and ecology in every form. Born a fan of organic gardening, she’s curious and cultivates a passion for all that can be eaten. Julie Boudreau is “epicurious” and also fascinated by Latin names.

2 comments on “Lime Trees in Northern Gardens

  1. Real limes, which we know as ‘Mexican’ limes are so sensitive to frost that I really did not like growing them when we grew citrus trees. Of the forty or so cultivars of citrus that we grew, it was the only one that wanted saran shelter from even very minor frost, and then defoliated anyway. I wanted to discontinue it, but it was too popular. Retailers bought whatever we could provide, even if they were just small defoliated thorny sticks in #5 cans. ‘Bearss’ lime grows more like a tame lemon tree, and can get as large. It has milder flavor, but is a better tree that is a bit more resilient to frost. Back then, we grew none of the sweet limes. ‘Rangpur’ lime was my favorite, although it is not actually a lime, and does not even resemble limes. It is more like a lemon with the rich flavor of a Mandarin orange.

  2. Brian Cassidy

    Great article. I had to go to the fridge and quarter a lime. The aroma is as good as the taste. Thank you. I enjoy all of your writing.

Leave a Reply