Problem in the Garden: Take a Closer Look, if the Problem Persists

When a plant isn’t doing well, we sometimes want to try everything at once: watering, pruning, fertilizing, spraying… or even singing it a lullaby (it may not make any difference to the plant, but it might calm you down). But before you do anything, it’s best to stop for a moment and examine the situation methodically.

Like a good detective, you can follow a few simple steps to pinpoint the problem. Here is a logical way to approach the issue without panicking.

1. Observe visible signs (foliage, stems, soil, presence of insects, etc.).
2. Check growing conditions (light, soil, humidity, exposure, etc.)
3. Identify the probable cause (stress, pest, disease, cultivation error, etc.)
4. Assess the severity of the problem (isolated or recurring, mild or severe)
5. Choose an appropriate response… or do nothing if the situation can resolve itself

What to Do Now?

You have taken the time to observe the plant and its environment. Yet everything seems right—light, soil type, humidity… In principle, it is in the right place.

So, what should you do now?

It’s time to get out your magnifying glass to take a closer look: if the growing conditions are right, you need to look elsewhere for the cause of the problem. Environmental stress? A hidden pest? A developing disease? A planting mistake?

Identify the Probable Cause

When a plant shows signs of weakness, there are several possible causes to consider. Here are the most common ones, with explanations and tips on how to spot them.

Insect pests

Insects feed on leaves, stems, roots, or flowers, causing visible damage or weakening the plant.

Signs: leaves pierced or nibbled, curled or discolored; hollow or pierced stems; insects visible under leaves or around buds; sticky deposit (honeydew).

Fungi (fungal diseases)

Microscopic fungi thrive in damp, stuffy environments, causing spots and rot.

Signs: brown, yellow, black or white spots on leaves; white felting (powdery mildew); gray mold (botrytis); rot at the collar or on the roots.

Bacteria

Pathogenic bacteria cause rapid infections, often linked to wounds or stagnant moisture.

Signs: wet or oily spots, sudden wilting, black or soft edges, unpleasant odor.

Virus

Carried by insects or tools, viruses do not kill immediately, but disrupt growth.

Signs: mosaic patterns on leaves, distorted growth, malformed flowers, curled or mottled leaves.

Inadequate watering

Too much or too little water causes major stress, which often manifests itself in the same symptoms.

Signs: yellow or wilted leaves despite moist soil (excess); dull, curled, or brittle leaves (lack).

Physical stress

Wind, trampling, excessive pruning, or transplanting can shock the plant.

Signs: broken stems, leaves falling off for no obvious reason, slowed or stopped growth after intervention.

Root competition

When a plant is too close to a tree or large shrub, it receives less water and nutrients.

Signs: slow growth, sparse foliage, hard or dry soil around the plant despite watering.

Planting errors

Planting too deep, poorly loosened soil or a compact root ball can hinder the establishment of the plant.

Signs: weak plant from the start, buried collar, water stagnating around the base.

Nutrient deficiencies or excesses

A nutrient imbalance can cause subtle symptoms that sometimes resemble disease.

Signs: pale or spotted foliage, visible veins, abnormal growth. A soil analysis can confirm the diagnosis.

Environmental factors

Even when growing conditions are good, certain unforeseen events can upset your plants. These temporary stresses—cold, heat, wind, etc.—leave visible marks. By learning to recognize them, you can avoid misdiagnosis and unnecessary treatments.

Late frost

A return of cold weather in spring can damage young shoots or flower buds.

Signs: blackened or translucent leaves, soft stem tips.

Heatwave or intense sunlight

Sudden heat causes rapid evaporation and water stress.

Signs: wilted, curled, or sunburned leaves.

Prolonged cold weather

An unusually cool spring slows growth without causing direct damage.

Signs: delayed flowering, slow foliage development.

Drying wind

Wind accelerates water loss, even if the soil is moist.

Signs: brown leaf edges, brittle or curled leaves.

Pollution or chemicals

Polluted air or residues from products such as de-icing agents or herbicides affect the foliage.

Signs: irregular yellow or brown spots, strange deformities.

Soil compaction

Overly compacted soil limits the oxygen available to roots.

Signs: slow growth, water stagnation on the surface, widespread yellowing.

Irregular watering

Periods of drought followed by heavy rain disrupt the water balance.

Signs: split fruit, leaves that turn yellow and then fall suddenly.

Lack of snow in winter

Without insulating cover, roots freeze more easily.

Signs: slow or no growth in spring, discoloration of the collar.

Reflection from surfaces

A light-colored surface (light-colored wall, window) can cause localized overheating.

Signs: burns on the leaves on the exposed side, rapid drying of the soil.

Assess the Severity of the Problem

Before taking action, it is important to assess the extent of the problem. Is it an isolated incident or a recurring symptom? A yellowed leaf or failed flowering one year is not necessarily cause for concern. But if the same problem recurs every season or worsens over time, it may be a sign of a deeper issue.

You should also consider the severity of the symptoms. Are they mild—a few damaged leaves, slightly slow growth—or more serious, such as a complete lack of flowering, massive leaf drop, or a plant that is no longer growing at all? In the most severe cases, the very survival of the plant may be at stake.

Finally, ask yourself whether the problem only affects the appearance or whether it is hindering the plant’s growth. Slightly damaged foliage at the end of the season is often harmless. However, if the plant is constantly wilting despite being watered properly, if its roots are rotting, or if it does not start growing again in spring, action must be taken.

Choose the Right Solution

Now that you have a better idea of the nature and severity of the problem, it’s time to take action… or not. Before bringing out the heavy artillery, take a moment to think. A problem in the garden doesn’t always call for an immediate solution: sometimes all it takes is a little patience, a minor adjustment, or a change of location. But in some cases, more drastic measures will be necessary—and, yes, you may have to part with the offending plant.

Take a Step Back

Everything in the garden is connected: growing conditions, weather, and pests are constantly interacting. A poorly placed plant—too much shade or soggy soil—becomes more vulnerable to disease and insects. Conversely, weather stress (freezing, heat waves, heavy rain) can weaken even well-established plants, making their natural defenses less effective. Often, one problem leads to another. That’s why it’s important to take a step back and assess the whole situation before taking action.

Do nothing

Sometimes, the best thing to do is… nothing. When a plant shows signs of stress after a heatwave, excessive rain or strong winds, it can be tempting to want to take immediate action. But if growing conditions are good and there are no pests involved, it is best to resist the urge to overcorrect. Many symptoms disappear on their own once the plant returns to stable conditions. By intervening too quickly—with fertilizer, fungicide, or radical pruning—you risk making the situation worse. In many cases, patience is the best remedy, especially in the garden, where everything evolves at nature’s pace.

Change plants

If a plant causes you problems year after year – disease, insects, unsuitable growth habit or invasive behavior – it may simply not be in the right place. Rather than fighting nature, it is better to consider replacing it. Some plants cause problems every season: roses attract Japanese beetles, lilies and fritillaries are devoured by leaf beetles, and hollyhocks constantly catch rust. Many gardeners persevere, hoping that fertilizer or pruning will change everything… but often the best choice is to pull the plant out and move on. The benefits are huge: less frustration, less work, fewer products. When you grow plants that are well suited to their environment and resistant to insects and diseases, gardening becomes simpler and more enjoyable. If a plant is exhausting you season after season, ask yourself: is it really worth it?

Focus on resilient plants

Some plants are naturally more resistant than others. They are more resistant to disease, attract fewer pests, and tolerate drought, wind, and many other conditions. There is almost always an easier alternative: a phlox that is resistant to powdery mildew, a peony with sturdy stems, a hosta with thick foliage that slugs avoid. Replacing a finicky plant with a robust variety simplifies everything: less stress and more laziness. These plants are not invincible, but they offer much more leeway.

Increase biodiversity

Promoting biodiversity does not mean turning your flower beds into a wasteland. Rather, it means inviting more useful species—plants, insects, birds, fungi, microorganisms—to coexist in a more sustainable and often more attractive balance. And since all these creatures are working for you, this reduces pests and diseases in the long term and makes your garden more resilient.

How can you achieve this? By diversifying your plants: perennials, grasses, shrubs, bulbs, and annuals attract a variety of wildlife. Honey plants such as bee balm, echinacea, alliums, and goldenrod support pollinators and natural predators.

Embrace a little imperfection: a less-trimmed border, a corner left to grow wild, hollow stems in winter… these all provide refuge for beneficial insects, frogs, and toads. A small water source attracts dragonflies and birds, while fruit-bearing shrubs such as elderberry and serviceberry feed wildlife while adding decorative interest.

This won’t eliminate all problems, but it will help you garden with nature rather than against it. And often, the most vibrant gardens are the ones that require the least effort.

Adjust conditions

Before considering treatment, it’s best to review your gardening practices. Often, a simple adjustment is all it takes to alleviate—or even solve—a problem. Watering is often the culprit: soggy or overly dry soil weakens plants. Improving drainage (compost, raised beds, gentle slopes) or aerating compacted soil with a fork can make a big difference.

Thinning foliage or pruning lightly improves air circulation and limits moisture, slowing the spread of disease. A poorly placed plant (dense shade, overly dry soil, root competition) may also benefit from being moved. Spacing plants further apart, adding mulch, watering in the morning, and fertilizing without overdoing it are all simple steps that naturally strengthen plants.

These adjustments sometimes need to be repeated, but they are often more effective than treatment. That said, they are no substitute for the golden rule: the right plant in the right place.

Treat safely… for you and the environment

Sometimes treatment is necessary to solve a problem that is getting worse. But every intervention, even a gentle one, has an impact. Before treating, it is important to diagnose the situation, assess its severity, and consider the possible effects on wildlife, plants, and yourself.

Physical or mechanical methods are often the simplest and safest. Remove insects or diseased parts by hand or use a jet of water to dislodge aphids. Insect nets protect plants from pests, while sticky traps catch a variety of insects (sometimes too many!). Pheromone traps target certain adult insects, such as Japanese beetles. Also pick up any infected plant debris that has fallen to the ground to limit the spread of disease.

If the problem persists…

If the problem persists, turn to organic or low-impact products. Insecticidal soap, horticultural oil, or neem oil suffocate insects by clogging their respiratory tract. Baking soda mixed with water helps prevent fungus. Sulfur and copper (Bordeaux mixture) are effective against several diseases, but can harm microfauna. Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt) is a bacterium used as a biological insecticide. Each strain targets a specific group of insects (e.g., Btk for caterpillars, Btg for beetles), but can also harm non-harmful species in the same group. Use with caution.

 You can also introduce beneficial nematodes to combat white grubs or sprinkle diatomaceous earth (when dry) to combat slugs, ants, and earwigs.

However, even mild treatments can upset the balance of the garden or harm other animals. Before taking action, always ask yourself: is it really necessary? If so, choose the most selective method, apply it carefully, and treat only what needs to be treated. This is the best way to protect your plants, your health, and all life around you.

Observe, Check, Identify, Assess, Take Action… or Not

You now have this simple method at your disposal to deal with minor (and major) problems in the garden. By applying it calmly and with curiosity, you will avoid unnecessary actions, blind treatments, and above all, a lot of frustration.

It is by observing carefully, without rushing, that you take the right action at the right time. But sometimes you need to take a step back to see things more clearly. Close observation reveals details… but taking a step back puts everything into perspective.

Remember Larry Hodgson’s good old advice: “Before treating, step back 15 paces: if you can’t see the problem at 15 paces, it’s probably not worth treating!!”