Do you love coriander? I’ve noticed that many people love coriander, while others absolutely loathe it. What’s certain is that few people are indifferent to the intense flavor of coriander leaves. In short, you either love it or you don’t. I love it! But that hasn’t always been the case!
Ten years ago, I was one of those people who really didn’t like coriander. But, never one to shy away from mastering its cultivation in order to pass on my knowledge, I grew it year after year. And when I came across a plant, I would nibble on a little leaf. At first, I winced, but gradually I learned to tame coriander to the point where I was hooked.
Coriander (Coriandrum sativum) is one of the most widely used condiment plants in the world. Cultivated mainly for the flavor of its leaves, its stems, roots, flowers and, of course, seeds are also edible. In fact, the flavour of the seeds is so different from that of the leaves that you’d think they came from two different plants.
The leaves have a very strong, even penetrating flavor and aroma, while the seeds, when dried, have a fruity, spicy taste and smell reminiscent of orange peel. Coriander seeds are easy to produce, but the same cannot be said for the leaves.
The Problem With Growing Coriander
If you’ve ever bought a coriander plant, I bet you were disappointed, because very soon the production of leaves stopped. The main problem with growing coriander is that the plant starts to bolt (some say it goes to seed) when it is subjected to the slightest stress. And there’s no shortage of stress. Transplanting, sun, intense heat, lack of water and over-harvesting are just some of the situations that can cause coriander to bolt.
The first coriander leaves are broad and serrated, rather like flat-leaf parsley. This is when their flavor is at its best. As the plant begins to bolt, subsequent leaves become progressively more divided and less flavorful. Flowering and seed production follow. As a small consolation, the flowers are attractive to pollinators and the seeds can be used or saved for future sowing.
This ability to quickly initiate bolting can be really frustrating for coriander leaf lovers. Although some varieties are marketed as being slower to set seed, my experience with these has been disappointing.
Sow, Sow, Sow!
If, like me, you want to enjoy the great taste of coriander leaves all summer long, run out and buy some seeds and sow them successively every three weeks. Sow the seeds 2 cm (3/4″) apart to a depth of 5 mm (1/4″)directly in the garden or in pots outdoors. When the plants reach 3 cm in height (1 inch), thin them out every 5 cm (2 inches) and eat the harvested young shoots. Above all, don’t waste your time starting seedlings indoors in spring, as transplanting outdoors may initiate bolting.
A Little Shade!
To delay bolting during the hottest periods of summer, grow coriander in a semi-shaded area. If your plot or balcony enjoys maximum sunlight, grow coriander in the shade of larger plants.
Aiming for Self-Sufficiency in Coriander
Coriander’s quickness to initiate bolting can be put to good use. Let a few plants go to seed. You can harvest the seeds (details to come) or let them fall to the ground to resow naturally. The following year, as soon as the warmth of spring sets in, you’re likely to see the appearance of small coriander plants that you can enjoy as early as possible.
Harvesting and Storage
You can start harvesting the leaves as soon as the plant reaches a height of 15 cm (6 inches). Harvesting should be done sparingly, otherwise too much harvesting may initiate… bolting.
For long-term storage, chop the leaves finely and freeze in oil or water. They can also be dried by spreading the chopped leaves out on a tray or large plate. However, the flavor of dried leaves deteriorates within a few months.
To harvest the seeds, cut off the flower stalk when the seeds start to turn brown and place in a brown paper bag. Store in a warm, dry place. After a few weeks, the seeds will detach easily from the stems. You can store them in an airtight container away from light.
Growing Coriander Indoors
Growing cilantro indoors during the cold season can be frustrating. Stunted plants are often the result of inadequate lighting or too high a temperature. If you want to give it a try, start seedlings in pots outdoors in late summer, then bring them indoors when night-time temperatures drop below 10°C (50?). Indoors, consider artificial lighting.
Another, more satisfying method is to grow coriander microfoots.
Three Alternatives to Coriander
If the idea of sowing coriander several times during the summer puts you off, or if you’d like to explore the world of herbs further, these three alternatives might interest you: Vietnamese coriander (Persicaria odorata syn. Polygonum odoratum), Culantro or Mexican coriander (Eryngium foetidum) and Bolivian coriander or pápalo (Porophyllum ruderale).
Yum, Coriander!
From now on, there’s no reason to miss out on the delicious flavor of cilantro in salads, sauces and more. And if you don’t like cilantro, you’ve got nothing to lose. The little survey I conduct every time I give a talk on herbs leads me to believe that there are fewer and fewer of you. In fact, my partner, who is often resistant to new flavours, has finally been seduced by coriander. Fortunately, because I use it everywhere.
Note : toutes les photos sont de l’autrice.
I used to hate it too! I kept adding a little bit that was barely noticeable until I reached a point where I wanted to notice it. Now I love it.