Mulching

What Is an Adequate Mulch?

Nature will always be the best school for understanding plant needs. It functions autonomously, following ubiquitous and interrelated environmental rules that enable the entire ecosystem of a given environment to be in perpetual equilibrium.

Photo: jacquesdurocher/Getty Images

Most of the problems we encounter in our crops are caused by the disruption of this balance. I’ve noticed that all the planet’s ecosystems, where the five vital plant parameters are present, are occupied by plants. Soils are never bare. The vital parameters are: water, air, soil nutrients, heat and light. With these elements, plants build their habitat, creating what I call: Nature’s Shepherd’s Pie. If you’re unfamiliar with this dish, it’s a layering of three main ingredients: ground meat, creamed corn (or corn kernels) and mashed potatoes on top. Whatever the recipe, this comparison is to make the point that wherever there are plants on the planet, you’ll always find three distinct layers of ingredients. It’s like that everywhere, except too often in our own cultures.

Nature’s Shepherd’s Pie

Wherever there is a natural vegetation cover on the planet, there are three distinct layers of matter, each playing an essential and complementary role. If one of them were absent, we’d have to forget plant life and, consequently, animal life as well as our own, that of humankind.

The various soil layers.Source: Académie de Bordeaux

1. The Support Layer for Plants: Mineral

Sand, clay, silt, black earth and even rock… plant life settles on all these minerals. This layer serves as a support in which (or on which, in the case of rock) plants attach themselves and extend their roots to draw water and minerals up from the soil, or circulate on and in the interstices of the rock, thanks to the phenomenon of capilarity.

2. The Living Nutrient Layer: Humus

Made up of decomposed and decaying organic matter, this layer contains what we call compost, but much more than that. This layer is inhabited by a living ecosystem that is busy transforming dead plant tissue into compost and mixing it with the top few centimetres of soil, creating rich soil on top of poor subsoil.

3. the Protective Layer: A Mulch of Dead Plants or Ground Cover

It’s both the layer that protects the nutrient layer and contributes to the forming of humus. It’s this protective layer that nourishes life in the soil and contributes to its fertility. This is the layer we’re talking about in this article.

The layer most often neglected is the top layer. This layer is made up of living and dead plants. In natural ecosystems, there is always both. In our cultivation practices, there is often only the living form of plants, the ones we grow, and we attach little or no importance to the layer of dead plants we call “mulch”.

Six Advantageous Characteristics

There are several categories of mulch on the market.

From an environmental standpoint, a suitable mulch should have these six advantageous characteristics:

1. It must come from plants

In nature, all mulch comes from plants. It’s always dead plant tissue that forms mulch. Look at the leaves on trees in the woods, or the dead grasses in wild meadows. The use of plastic, geotextile, crushed stone or rubber shavings doesn’t automatically lighten the load, and doesn’t provide all the benefits of a natural mulch.

Photo: Getty Images.

2. It should resemble as closely as possible the plants to which it is applied.

What kind of mulch do you find in a maple forest? In a coniferous forest? In a wild meadow? If we follow environmental logic, does it make sense to apply conifer mulch to herbaceous plants?

3. It must decompose quickly

In the natural world, what goes to make up mulch eventually becomes plant food. The mulches used must therefore decompose quickly enough to allow the plants to self-fertilize, unless you insist on buying concentrated fertilizers and compost, which are costly both in terms of money and the environment.

Photo: Hans Verburg

4. It must be available

Once again, for environmental and economic reasons, it would be preferable for the mulch used to be readily available in sufficient quantities, without the need for long-distance transport. It must be available in sufficient quantities to supply all those who need it.

5. It must be inexpensive

Who wants to invest a fortune in their flower beds and garden, when there’s another way? Since the mulch used has to decompose quickly to ensure self-fertilization, if it has to be expensive, not everyone will be able to afford it, especially since expensive mulches are precisely those that are least available.

Leaves make a good, economical mulch. Photo: unkas_photo

6. It should be made of materials that are not or only slightly decomposed, not too coarse and remain aerated.

To prevent the seeds of undesirable plants trapped in the mulch from germinating, the materials making up the mulch must be able to dry out between rains. That’s why it’s essential to keep the mulch aerated.

On the other hand, if the mulch materials are too coarse, aeration will be too great and the soil will dry out. What’s more, this type of coarse mulch will be less stable in the wind. This means you’ll have to apply a layer of mulch that’s too thick, which will lead to other problems.

Finally, if the materials used are at too advanced a stage of decomposition, the mulch will no longer play a protective role, but will become, as happens in nature, a nutrient layer and, consequently, an excellent germination medium. Moreover, organic matter is likely to be wasted, as it will become humus on the surface and blow away with the slightest gust of wind or a good rain, contaminating run-off water rather than serving as food for your plants.

Analysis of mulch types according to environmental characteristics

Mulch typeOrganic originSimilar*Rapid decompositionAvailabilityLow costAerated materials
Cocoa husksYesNoYesNoNoNo
Buckwheat hullsYesYesYesNoNoNo
Pine barkYesNoNoNoNoNo
Cedar, hemlock, pine mulchYesNoNoNoNoNo
RCW (ramial wood chips)YesNoYesNoNoNo
Decorative or volcanic stoneNoNoNoNoNoNo
Cereal strawYesYesYesNoNoNo
Shredded tree leavesYesYesYesYesYesYes
Freshly chopped herbaceous plantsYesYesYesYesYesYes
The analysis is based on the use of mulch on the plants most commonly used in our landscaping and vegetable gardens, i.e. herbaceous plants. The results in this column would therefore differ slightly if the same mulches were applied to deciduous shrubs or conifers.

Returning Dead Plant Matter to the Soil

The return of dead plant matter to the soil is the hallmark of everything in nature. Without this return of dead tissue, plant life could not exist. This is part of the great circular consumption process, where nothing is lost and nothing is created in nature. Ignoring this obvious environmental fact exposes us to increased maintenance and endless expenditure on products that have a negative impact on the environment, whatever they may be.

Photo: dawnie12 

Personally, the only materials that enter my gardens are the leaves from the trees and herbaceous plants in my immediate environment. I manage them as resources, not as waste. I do this not out of laziness, but out of common sense!

I hope you enjoy your environmental gardening!

Serge Fortier is an environmental and environmental gardening consultant with over 40 years of expertise and observation of plants and their environment. He stands out for his logical practices, which respect environmental laws above all else, and which he shares at conferences, in training courses, as a consultant and in his books. A skilled popularizer, he guides the public in understanding the plant world that surrounds us. He has mastered the management of organic matter at source, the management of drinking water for the garden and the management of aquatic plants. His motto: Do more with less! More results with fewer problems, less expense and, above all, less effort! Laidback gardening isn't laziness, it's intelligence!

4 comments on “What Is an Adequate Mulch?

  1. Perfect blog on Adequate Mulch, it help me alot to make understanding. Thanks for sharing this type of unique blogs.

  2. kathyjones100

    We have been told repeatedly not to compost weeds. My landscape is full of weeds. Can they be incorporated into my compost? Should they be used selectively, such as clover or weed grasses that have not set seeds. I’m still a little confused.

    • Mathieu Hodgson

      You can compost weeds, but take precautions. Do not compost weeds that have gone to seed. Avoid perennial weeds with resilient roots unless your compost pile gets hot enough (above 140°F or 60°C) to kill them. Annual weeds like clover and chickweed are generally safe to compost if they haven’t set seeds. Pre-compost weeds by drying them in the sun to ensure they are dead.

  3. claire sullivan

    Thank you for so clearly explaining this common sense procedure.

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