The last few years have seen the emergence of some absolutely striking new cultivars of Fittonias, with their particularly bright white, red or pink hues. Many amateur gardeners are charmed by these miniature plants, only to find them capricious and eternally unsatisfying. Yet it is possible to have a satisfying relationship with the plant of the month, THE fittonia.
Origin
Fittonias are native to Peru and surrounding countries. The name was given to them in honor of sisters Elizabeth and Sarah Fitton, Irish botanists whose books helped popularize the plant in the 19th century. They are also known as mosaic plant or nerve plant, because of their beautiful veins.
There are only two species of Fittonia: F. gigantea (broad-leaved) and F. albivenis (“white-veined” in Latin), formerly known as F. verschaffeltii and F. argyroneura. The latter is mainly grown indoors, although the broad leaves of F. gigantea can sometimes be seen.
The Fittonia genus belongs to the Acanthaceae family. Other plants belonging to the Acanthaceae family are also found in our homes: the shrimp plant (Justicia brandegeeana), the Persian shield plant (Strobilanthes dyeriana), the zebra plant (Aphelandra squarrosa) and the polka dot plant (Hypoestes phyllostachya), whose cultivation is very similar to that of Fittonia.
Description
Fittonias are small ground cover plants. They form upright, more or less branched stems that eventually arch low to the ground, where they root and multiply, slowly gaining ground. The oval leaves are opposite on the stem, olive-green in color, with veins that are generally white and particularly visible, but can also be pink or red. Leaves are matte, with a rigid, almost parchment-like texture. Stems may be slightly hairy, especially new shoots. When it blooms, Fittonia covers itself with a flowering stalk of multiple, not particularly attractive green or pale yellow flowers.
Varieties
Several new Fittonia cultivars have appeared in recent years. There are several factors that distinguish cultivars. The veins may be white, pink or red. They may cover more or less of the leaf, so that in some cultivars, new shoots appear more colored than green. We also see cultivars with large leaves, slightly reminiscent of F. gigantea, as well as dwarf cultivars that are particularly miniature and compact. Leaves may be oval or elliptical, sometimes with a serrated edge. Cultivars sold are generally abundantly branched.
White Veins
Among the white-veined cultivars are small cultivars (‘Mini White’, ‘Minima’, ‘Bambino’), medium-sized cultivars (‘White Brocade’) and large-leaf cultivars (‘Superba’).
Cultivars with white veins and slightly variegated foliage are called ‘Angel Snow’ and ‘Daisy’.
When the olive green turns into a light, almost chartreuse green, it’s called ‘Mosaic Lemon’.
The elongated foliage of ‘Stripes Forever’ appears to be striped with almost parallel lines, making it stand out from the rest.
New cultivars appear to have slightly pointed foliage. The new leaves have particularly bright, visible veins, so colorful that they seem to fill the entire leaf. They come in small (‘White Tiger’, ‘White Star’, ‘White Forest Flame’) and large (‘White Anne’) sizes.
Red Veins
There are several medium-sized red-veined cultivars, such as ‘Crinkle Red’ and ‘Red Vein’. Larger and smaller cultivars also exist, bearing the highly original names ‘Red Vein (larger)’ and ‘Mini Red Vein’. In the cultivar named ‘Fortissimo’, the veins are much more discreet, giving it a more subtle charm.
Chartreux cultivars with red veins are called ‘Josan’ and ‘Skeleton’, and also exist with larger leaves – ‘Skeleton (Big Leaf)’. The paler hue of the leaves is most noticeable on the new leaves. There is also a cultivar with darker leaves, called ‘Black Star’.
The Star series has given rise to cultivars with pointed foliage, whose veins are so large that they almost completely dye the new leaves. These are the ‘Red Star’ and ‘Ruby Red’ cultivars.
Veines roses
Pink veined fittonias are my favorite! There are single cultivars like ‘Pink Veins’ and ‘Pink Angel’, as well as the broad-leaved ‘Juanita’.
The version with variegated foliage is called ‘Jungle Flame’ or ‘Red Angel’, a confusing name if ever there was one, since the veins are truly pink. In the ‘Purple Veins’ cultivar, the veins are a very light lavender color.
The new colorful cultivars with pointed leaves are called ‘Frankie’ and ‘Pink Star’. There’s also a miniature cultivar, with particularly round leaves and veins, called ‘Bubble Pink’.
True Giant Fittonia
Although some Fittonia albivenis boast larger foliage, the real giant Fittonia is its cousin F. gigantea, which can reach heights of up to 80 cm. It is more unusual to grow indoors – the veins are generally not very visible.
Conseils de culture
This section could be summed up as polka dot plant’s more discreet cousin”. In short, if you know how to grow the ephelid plant, you’ll have no trouble with fittonia.
Light
Fittonias, especially those with bright red or pink foliage, prefer bright light. If well watered, they will even tolerate a little direct sun. They do relatively well in medium light, but are a little more prone to rot at this time. Plants with more green than color can probably tolerate low light, but their growth will be stunted and their colors dull.
Watering
We try to keep the potting soil always moist, but not soggy. You can water a plant generously in bright light (always in a pot with drainage holes), but you must wait for the potting soil to dry out very, very slightly for plants in medium to low light.
As the foliage is slightly hairy, it’s best to avoid wetting it. Watering from underneath, as is done for African violets, avoids this risk.
A fittonia hangs sadly, with limp leaves, when it needs watering. This is particularly true in winter, when a lot of water is lost through evapotranspiration. It will recover quickly from this treatment, but may lose a few leaves or new shoots. Be careful not to mistreat it too often – the plant may not recover!
Atmospheric Humidity
Winters in the northern hemisphere, where heating dries out the air, are particularly harsh for Fittonia. This is a plant that prefers high atmospheric humidity at all times. It may be necessary to place it in a greenhouse (such as a transparent plastic bag) or terrarium during the driest months.
Potting
Fittonias have a relatively shallow root system, so repotting is not often necessary. Pots that are wider than they are deep are more practical for larger plants, reminiscent of their ground-covering nature. Any draining potting soil will do.
Fertilizers
During the growing season, an all-purpose fertilizer can be applied at the rate recommended on the pack.
Temperature
Fittonias cannot tolerate temperatures below 10°C (50?).
Maintenance
Fittonias require very little maintenance. As with all plants, watering should be adapted to the amount of light and humidity in the season. There’s no need to manage a resting period, but care must be taken with atmospheric drought in winter. Subjects with little tendency to branch can be pinched back occasionally to maintain a compact shape. Flower spikes can be removed: the flowers are unattractive. Finally, ageing Fittonias will invariably lose their upright habit and start to hang down, so cut them back… or accept their ground-cover nature!
Multiplication
Fittonia can be propagated using a stem cutting with a node and a few leaves. Greenhouse conditions are necessary for rooting – get your transparent plastic bags! Newly rooted cuttings should be uncovered gradually.
You can also take advantage of the natural layering of older Fittonias: when the upright stems finally arch, they root where they touch the ground. Once the roots have taken hold, you can separate them to make two plants.
Problems
It’s quite common for fittonias to become soft. There may be several reasons for this:
- If the soil is dry, the plant is lacking water. Simply water.
- If the plant has been moved recently, it may be in adaptation shock. Keep it well watered (but not too much) and increase the humidity. The plant should become rigid again after a few days, at which point you can gradually reduce the humidity.
- If the soil is quite wet, it’s been over-watered, and rot may be attacking its roots. You can try increasing humidity and light (without direct sunlight) and hope the plant recovers, or take cuttings to preserve the plant.
Dry or curled tips on the foliage indicate a lack of moisture.
Black spots on the foliage are caused by disease; try using an antifungal or removing the affected foliage. Keep this plant away from others, especially other fittonias.
Insects
Fittonias are attacked by soft-shelled, hard-shelled scale insects. They are also frequently visited by soil flies: while these rarely cause damage to the host plant, they can cause a lot of damage to gardeners’ nerves! It can be difficult to eliminate them while keeping the potting soil constantly moist. Here’s how:
- watering from below may help slightly.
- placing yellow sticky traps can slow them down;
- placing a barrier of a few centimetres, such as sand, can prevent them from laying eggs;
- Using diatomaceous earth or natural predators (such as nematodes) is fatal.
A Brief Aside on the Difficulty of Fittonias
Fittonias are often known as “divas” in the houseplant world, throwing a tantrum whenever they run out of water, winter is on their doorstep or they don’t get the attention of gardeners.
This reputation is, in most cases, entirely justified. This is what leads us to characterize their culture as “demanding”. Indeed, their margin for error is very limited…
That said, the new cultivars available on the market, distinguished by their pointed, wavy-edged leaves (and also because they are much more colorful than the older cultivars), are a little easier than the old ones. In my opinion, this is a particularly successful case of hybridization: the plants are even prettier, but also easier! If only this were the case for all houseplants…
A slight difference can be seen when comparing them: the new cultivars are more compact, but also a little stiffer, while the old ones have supple, thin leaves. They are much more tolerant of drought and therefore forgiving of forgetfulness, although they still prefer regular watering.
Hence the corrected mention of “medium to demanding” difficulty. Fittonias can probably never be considered easy, but they don’t necessarily have the difficulty of yesteryear.
Toxicity
Fittonias are not toxic.
Presentation Tips
If you’re growing fittonias in a terrarium, see Easy Care Terrariums.
Conclusion
With the advice in this article, it will be possible to improve your relationship with fittonia and develop the complicity you dream of developing with this pretty little plant with its attractive foliage, whether streaked with red, pink or white veins. If you pay attention to watering, an art as delicate as the plant itself, you should be able to keep a fittonia healthy for many years.
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