
November, winter is upon us… With winter comes low light, with heating comes atmospheric dryness and with the short days sometimes comes the dormant period. For some gardeners, there’s also the worry that their plants will quietly wither away (they can’t help it, plants are ugly in winter!) – and one of the plants that suffers most in winter is the zebra plant (Aphelandra squarrosa). So here’s a good opportunity to learn more about it and help it live until next spring!
Origin
Aphelandra squarrosa is native to Brazil. Only this small evergreen shrub of the Aphelandra genus is grown as an indoor plant: the other species of the same genus, no matter how many 200 of them there are, are best kept outside. They all belong to the Acanthaceae family. The flowering of A. squarrosa is reminiscent of that of two other plants in the family that are sometimes grown indoors: the shrimp plant (Justicia brandegeeana or Beloperone guttata) and the yellow pachystachys (Pachystachys lutea).

The word ‘Aphelandra’ comes from the Greek, Apheles (simple) and Andros (man). However, the name was not given in honour of a simple man; the real reason is far less interesting: it is a name for anthers, the part of the stamen (the male organ of the flower) that produces pollen, made up of a single cell. For a plant named for this particular feature, there is surprisingly little information on Aphelandra anthers – the real reasons behind this nomenclature may have been lost in time.
The term ‘squarrosa’ comes from Latin and is used to describe leaves or flowers that fit together like scales. It’s probably a reference to flower spikes… a very specific word, in any case.
Description
In the wild, the zebra plant can grow to a height of two metres (6.5 feet) and spread just as widely, forming a small shrub with evergreen ornamental foliage. In the home, we mostly see more timid plants, often around thirty centimetres tall, which can sometimes grow to 60 centimetres (2 feet) in height and 40 cm (16 inches) in spread.
The stems are thick and robust, sometimes branching, and bear large, pointed, oval leaves. They are dark green, glossy and attractively veined with white, which gives them their charm. Modern cultivars are compact, with veins whose white colour spreads widely across the leaf blade.
When A. squarrosa flowers, each stem bears a floral spike with bright yellow bracts. Flowers of the same colour tend to be short-lived (and of little ornamental interest), but the coloured spike can last for several weeks.
Varieties
There are roughly two varieties available on the market. The plant usually presented, compact and with well-defined white veins, is called Aphelandra squarrosa ‘Dania’.
Another cultivar is occasionally found on sale: it can be distinguished by its veins, which have even wider white stripes that are highly saturated in the centre and spread out transparently, giving it a slightly powdery or ghostly appearance. This cultivar goes by various names such as ‘Snow White’, ‘White Wash’ or ‘Snowflake’. On the face of it, there are not necessarily any differences between them.

Other varieties also exist, with pink, red or orange flowers, but they are harder to find.
Growing Tips

Light
The zebra plant does well in medium light. Although the sun’s rays are not fatal, the rise in temperature that often accompanies sunlit windows can be: it is easier to keep it away. Too much light can lead to various leaf deformities.
Watering
Despite its sturdy stems, the zebra plant does not tolerate drought. When it gets thirsty, its leaves hang limply and sadly. To keep the soil moist, but not soggy, it’s best to water little and often, rather than a lot and sporadically. Avoid getting inflorescences wet.

Atmospheric Humidity
The reason why zebra plants suffer in winter is that they need good atmospheric humidity (we’re talking over 50%). For this reason, unless you put it near a humidifier, it’s best to grow it well surrounded by other plants. If this is not possible, it may be necessary to place it in a transparent plastic bag over winter.
Potting soil and potting
Any draining potting soil for houseplants will do. I find coir-based potting soils easy to keep evenly moist.
Fertilizers
During the growing season, it can be fertilised with a standard dose of fertiliser, or at half the suggested dose.
Temperature
Temperatures between 18 and 21°C (65 to 70?) are optimal for this tropical plant. In terms of cold, temperatures between 15 and 18°C (59 to 65?) lead to a period of pseudoreposis (see next section). Temperatures as low as 13°C (55?) lead to damage after a few weeks, and should therefore be avoided. As far as heat is concerned, the zebra plant is also sensitive to excesses: a maximum of 30°C (86?) is sufficient to avoid any inconvenience.

Maintenance
The plant can be pruned to encourage branching or to maintain its compact habit. Prune preferably during the growing season.
The period of dormancy is not strictly necessary. The plant is rested by lowering the temperature to around 15°C (59?) and slightly reducing watering. On the other hand, A. squarrosa still needs light during this period, unlike other resting plants.
Some sources recommend a slight rest period after flowering. At the very least, the gardener should be alert to changes in water requirements: when the plant no longer needs to water its inflorescence, it may need less watering.
A period of rest can also encourage flowering. To achieve this, temperature and water reduction should be carried out in a well-lit room. Indeed, flower production requires the plant to be in bright light, with perhaps a little direct morning sun (which may make it difficult to reduce watering). These conditions can be difficult to achieve for those without a greenhouse – grow lights are then necessary.

Propagation
Cutting young shoots is quite delicate. You need to take a cutting about ten centimetres long and remove the leaves from the bottom of the stem to reveal a node from which the roots will grow. The cutting should be planted in barely moist potting soil, in a stifled environment (i.e. greenhouse effect) and, if possible, on a warming tray or at a temperature of at least 25°C (77?). Bright light, without direct sunlight, is also necessary. Once the plant has taken root, it can be gradually acclimatized to ambient humidity, and then to more modest light as required.
Problems
At least, the zebra plant is very communicative about its needs, thanks to its foliage.
- Foliage that curls up and dries out: lack of atmospheric humidity;
- Foliage hanging sadly: lack of watering. Note that A. squarrosa has very low drought tolerance (it may be necessary to water a thirsty plant by drenching);
- Yellowing foliage: too much watering, watch out for root rot;
- Falling foliage: the plant is sensitive to shocks. It could be a heat stroke, a sudden change in atmospheric humidity, a draught or a watering error corrected too late. As with other plants, it’s best to gradually acclimatize it to changes. When in doubt, slightly increase the ambient light and humidity: it can’t hurt! And for the plant in shock, you need to be patient and let it react for a few weeks.
Insects: Zebra plants are occasionally visited by all types of scale insects, spider mites and, less frequently, aphids and whiteflies.
Diseases: A. squarrosa sometimes suffers from leaf disease or mildew. Various treatments are available – the simplest is to remove the affected foliage. In this case, it may be beneficial to avoid wetting the foliage (watering by drenching) and to increase air circulation.
Toxicity
A. squarrosa is not toxic.
Conclusion
As we’ve seen, the zebra plant is a delicate cultivation plant, with sensitivities to watering and atmospheric humidity. Although it suffers a little in winter, it offers us ornamental foliage and long, colorful blooms all year round – a challenge worth taking up!
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