So here we are in March, winter is taking unfair advantage of our hospitality. And even I, who am a lover of indoor plants (shocking, isn’t it?), there are some that I look at these days with a sad and/or angry eye. These green friends, which were so pretty during the summer, are now increasingly dull, less and less full, and the few leaves that remain are starting to dry from the tip.
Today’s article will not be about one type of plant, but two, whose cultivation is so similar that it would be pointless to write a second article. They are apoballis and schismatoglottis, two plants with ornamental foliage (and, for the second, an aesthetically deficient name) that particularly suffer from atmospheric drought, common during winter.
Origin
Both plants belong to the Araceae family, well known to indoor plant lovers, and the source of many of the guests in our homes: Epipremnum aureum (pothos), Philodendron, Spathiphyllum (peace lily), Aglaonema, Dieffenbachia, Anthurium, Zamioculcas zamiifolia (ZZ)… and many more! In fact, Araceae are appreciated for their foliage and their tolerance to lack of light.
In a striking burst of originality, apoballis belong to the genus Apoballis and schismatoglottis to the genus Schismatoglottis. That said, the two plants are so similar that some botanists classify the apoballis, of which there are some 12 species, in the genus Schismatoglottis, itself composed of around a hundred individuals.
It is precisely the species Apoballis acuminatissima that we tend to see sometimes appearing as a houseplant, a particularly aesthetic specimen that will be described later. This plant comes, like most apoballis, from the island of Sumatra in Indonesia.
As for the schismatoglottis, several plants found in our homes are hybrids with unspecified parents. Schismatoglottis have been discovered in the wild in Oceania and Southeast Asia, particularly on the island of Borneo. Interesting fact: there is also a kind of schismatoglottis, S. prietoi, which is entirely aquatic.
Description
Several characteristics of apoballis and schismatoglottis are reminiscent of other Araceae, in particular their inflorescence (rare indoors and of limited interest) formed of a spadix and surrounded by a spathe, typical of Araceae.
Both plants have broad heart-shaped or slightly lanceolate leaves depending on the species. They are thin, sometimes almost parchment-like in texture and come in a variety of colors, attached to a stem by a moderately long petiole. The smaller specimens resemble rosettes, but with age, the natural loss of leaves reveals a stem marked with leaf scars. Several years may be necessary to see the stem because of the restricted internodal space. The detail of the leaves, the main aesthetic criterion, will be discussed later when the various varieties are presented.
Neither apoballis nor schimatoglottis tend to branch out, even when pruned. However, they form well-stocked indoor plants because of their tendency to vegetative propagation by suckers. Apoballis, like peace lilies, which they are so similar to in terms of both shape and cultivation, will form colonies of individuals very close together, while schismatoglottis produce offshoots that appear a little further away at the end of an underground rhizome, a bit more like aglaonemas.
Varieties
The only form of apoballis that is sometimes found on the market in my area is the magnificent A. acutissima ‘Red Sword’ or ‘Lavallei’ (these two names seem to be synonyms), an upright and lively plant, whose green leaves are more or less speckled with silver, sometimes so much so that the plant appears more silvery than green. The leaves therefore gleam in the light, while the reverse side is a particularly deep purple. The petioles are also of this color, creating a beautiful contrast with the leaves.
No other apoballis seems to be used as a houseplant at the moment. On the other hand, some schismatoglottis occasionally appear in shops! The most common is s. wallichi, a plant of considerable size. The leaves are dark green with two paler green stripes. The leaves are less upright than the apoballis described above, more reminiscent of the syngonium or alocasia.
S. borneo ‘Silver’
S. borneo ‘Silver’ is a plant with smaller, thinner leaves, whose central green color is broadly bordered by silvery stripes. We can also see the magnificent entirely silvery leaves of the hybrid schismatoglottis ‘Silver’ or ‘Silver Form’, a plant with dense and stunted growth. Some complex hybrids, rarer in Canada, have leaves whose detail is reminiscent of camouflage patterns (such as S. ‘Thailand’ and others not specified) or silver-hued ornaments (S. hendrikii, S. metallica). From that moment on, not only are the hybrids more difficult to find (much to my chagrin!), but the names are also starting to get mixed up and some are simply designated as Schismatoglottis sp., i.e. an undetermined species for the moment.
Growing Tips
Light
Medium light is the minimum necessary to ensure the health of plants. Bright light is preferable. In low light, plants grow slowly and the risk of root rot is greatly increased.
Be careful with direct sunlight, however: although it is far from being fatal for indoor plants (contrary to what is often said), the increase in heat would cause the plant to quickly use up its water reserves to compensate. And, as we will see later, watering is a bit tricky. Caution is advised: after all, apoballis and schismatoglottis are not used to direct sunlight in their natural environment.
For more information on light levels in winter and our indoor plants.
Watering
These two plants belong to the complex category of plants that need the soil to dry out very slightly, but which cannot tolerate the soil drying out for a long time. Let me explain: ideally, you want to allow the soil of plants such as peace lilies or hibiscus to dry out very slightly and the plant to start feeling a little thirsty, before watering it thoroughly. Constantly moist soil can lead to root rot.
However, the thin leaves of the apoballis or schismatoglottis do not retain any water and you can see the thirsty plants dramatically collapse if they are left to their own devices for too long. When they are watered, they regain a good shape… the first few times. If they suffer this fate too frequently, they end up not recovering.
As a general rule, people who are successful with peace lilies will know how to water these two plants. In bright light, it should not be a problem to keep the soil constantly moist. Apoballis tolerate drought slightly better and can be watered a little more sparingly.
Interesting fact: schismatoglottis release their excess water by guttation, those little drops that appear at the tips of the leaves, a completely normal phenomenon. But be careful not to stain the furniture on which they are placed!
Atmospheric Humidity
Plants find it difficult to tolerate our interiors without a little help. However, they are not too demanding in terms of atmospheric humidity: they only act up in winter. All other seasons, they lead their little life without any problems. In winter, you may have to put your plants in bags during the months of intense heating, as the heating dries out the ambient air considerably. The other options are to use a humidifier or to group delicate plants among other plants.
Potting Soil and Repotting
No preference in terms of soil, basic potting soil for indoor plants will be fine. I personally find that coco coir potting soils are the easiest to keep evenly moist.
The only time you need to repot the plant is when you are no longer able to ensure constant watering, as the soil, in increasingly disproportionate quantities compared to the roots, is unable to provide them with the required hydration.
Note: apoballis are more susceptible to root rot and therefore appreciate a soil with added draining elements (perlite, wood chips, sand). Schismatoglottis tend to tolerate any type of soil without too many problems. This is probably the main difference between the two plants…
Fertilizer
They can be fertilized with the recommended dose of all-purpose fertilizer during the growth period (therefore mainly from mid-spring to mid-autumn). In terms of growth, there is another difference between the two plants: schismatoglottis grow much faster than apoballis.
Temperature
The tropical plant par excellence, avoid temperatures below 15°C (59?).
Maintenance
No pruning is necessary to keep them looking beautiful. Once they have been provided with the right level of humidity and watering, these plants require very little care. At most, you may need to remove a basal leaf when it dries out and, for those who mind, cut the tips of leaves that may have turned brown over the winter due to atmospheric dryness. But obviously, that means not respecting the 15-pace rule!
Propagation
We generally divide plants to propagate them. To do this, we need a specimen that is mature enough to have started producing offshoots. The plant is then dug up to sever the root connecting the offshoot to the mother plant, but only when the offshoot has produced some of its own roots. Obviously, this is much easier to do for the long, visible rhizomes of schismatoglottis than for the tightly packed roots of apoballis.
Personally, I have never tried stem cuttings and there is little information available on the subject. As for apoballis, because of the hidden stems and restricted internodal spaces, it would be difficult to take a cutting without damaging the mother plant. I imagine that aquatic cuttings are easy to root for schismatoglottis, as for many Araceae, since, by nature, several schismatoglottis lead a hybrid life, half aquatic and half terrestrial.
Tip: Although I always encourage horticultural experimentation, I think it is important to emphasize that these are two rather delicate plants. It is certainly quite possible to divide them or even propagate them from cuttings, but let’s stack the odds in our favor: choose a healthy plant that is visibly growing, perhaps even use growth hormones, cover plants that are convalescing and, why not, carry out our surgical experiments in the summer, when the plant is outside and enjoying dappled shade and summer humidity.
Problèmes
- The plant appears tired, its leaves are drooping pitifully or the stems are completely limp, and the soil is dry: the plant is in great need of water. Generous watering, leaving the pot to soak for about thirty minutes, will provide it with the water it needs. Be careful: the plant is damaged every time, even if it recovers quickly. Water stress is a stage that should not be reached too often.
- However, be careful not to overcompensate: subsequent watering should be regular and adapted to the needs of the plant. There may be a tendency to overwater after not having watered enough: the poor plant, shocked at having lacked water, finds itself overwatered and particularly prone to rot. As the old saying goes: “Too much is as good as nothing”!
- The plant looks tired, its leaves are drooping pitifully or the stems are completely limp, and the soil is still damp: the roots are probably rotting. Try placing the plant in the light so that it can regrow its roots or take cuttings, but it is likely that it is unfortunately too late.
- This problem particularly occurs when the plant is growing in medium or low light.
And that’s not all…
- The plant looks tired, its leaves are drooping pitifully or the stems are completely limp, and the soil is still damp, but I have just repotted or divided it: it is going through a period of adjustment. Try to increase the humidity if possible and try to limit other changes as much as possible, particularly changes of position. It should regain its vigor in a few weeks.
- The tips of the leaves are drying out more and more, the plant is becoming increasingly ugly and I am starting to sulk: lack of atmospheric humidity. It is necessary to ensure a regular supply of water and to increase the humidity (humidifier, plastic bag or grouping the plants together). This is a particularly common problem in winter… the solution may simply be to wait patiently for warmer days.
- Insects: apoballis and schismatoglottis are not particularly prone to insects. They are sometimes affected by the usual culprits, notably mealybugs of all kinds, two-spotted spider mites and thrips.
Toxicity
All in all, there is very little quality information on apoballis and schismatoglottis, I would be surprised if a serious study has been done on their toxicity.
When you consider that almost all Araceae are toxic due to their sap being rich in calcium oxalate crystals, I would tend to also include apoballus and schismatoglottis on the list of toxic plants – and therefore keep them out of the reach of cats and dogs.
Purchasing Advice
Isn’t it a great joy when we are spoiled for choice with several healthy specimens in front of us? In this case, in addition to looking at the healthiest foliage, we can look at the soil for signs of emerging shoots. Sometimes a more modest plant with several babies will quickly become a more substantial pot than a larger plant that has not yet divided.
Conclusion
Don’t despair if your apoballis or your schismatoglottis look a bit off color in winter: as soon as the sunnier days arrive, a bit like someone with seasonal blues, they will quickly perk up again with their beautiful foliage and graceful form. In the meantime, let’s pay attention to watering and atmospheric humidity and wait in wonder to see the sweet little faces of their offshoots, which will no doubt appear in a few months’ time!
0 comments on “Apoballis and Schismatoglottis: Origin, Varieties and Growing Tips”