What Do We Do With That Darned Gravel in the Lawn?

In Surprise! Snow Can Melt Without Your Help, Larry Hodgson expressed his frustration with spring shovelers who push snow from their yards onto public roads. Yet this snow is beneficial for the lawn: it insulates it from early spring frosts and provides precious water to the water table, which will then rise by capillarity as the season progresses.

What he didn’t mention, on the other hand, is the damned grit that accumulates along the streets, on the lawn, when the snow melts. A nice gift from the municipal snowblowers…

Don’t Turn the Sidewalk Into a Skating Rink!

In Canada, it is generally forbidden to deposit snow on public roads, although some municipalities offer exceptions under certain conditions. It is therefore best to consult municipal by-laws to find out the rules that apply in your area.

Throwing snow in the street or on the sidewalk can interfere with the movement of pedestrians, cyclists and motorists. It can also block catch basins, pedestrian crossings or reserved lanes. If the snow melts and then refreezes, it forms patches of ice that pose a risk to public safety and are difficult to remove.

In urban areas, where space is limited, snow is generally cleared using snow blowers and trucks, and then transported to a snow dump. This method is effective, but costly and energy-intensive.

In the suburbs or in more open areas, snow is often blown to the edge of private property. This strategy reduces costs, preserves the capacity of snow depots and limits greenhouse gases from transportation.

Why Is Fine Gravel and Sand Used Instead of Salt?

Road salt, generally sodium chloride, is effective in melting ice when the temperature is between 0°C and -15°C (32°F to 5°F) . Below this range, it rapidly loses its effectiveness. Abrasives such as fine gravel (2 to 5 mm, approximately 1?8 inch) or sand are then used to improve grip on icy surfaces, without necessarily melting the ice.

In addition to this limited effectiveness, salt has harmful effects on the environment, particularly on soil and vegetation. It can alter the structure of soil by reducing its permeability and aeration, two essential conditions for plant health. Salt can also change the pH of the soil and, in large quantities, form a salt crust on the surface. The activity of beneficial soil microorganisms is also affected, which impairs the biological balance of the soil.

Some ions in salt are toxic to plants. They can disrupt nutrient absorption, slow down plant growth, or even cause death. Conifers, whose metabolism remains active during the winter, are particularly sensitive to salt spray.

In the long term, the accumulation of salt in the soil can encourage the establishment of salt-tolerant plant species, including invasive alien species such as common reed (Phragmites australis), which are less beneficial from an ecological point of view. This is to the detriment of more sensitive native species, resulting in a reduction in biodiversity.

Furthermore, the majority of chlorides from road salts infiltrate into groundwater, while the rest ends up in surface water. This accumulation can make the water saltier than seawater in some places, which has significant repercussions on aquatic ecosystems and the quality of drinking water.

Harmful Effects of Sand and Gravel on Our Properties

So we can agree that we’re pretty much stuck with sand and gravel, right? But you should know that these products are not without harmful effects on our grounds and our plantations.

Over time, the accumulation of sand and gravel on or in the soil changes its composition. Plants already in place – often lawns – may no longer be adapted to this new type of soil and may suffer as a result. The more sand or gravel there is, the less organic matter there is, which is detrimental to the fertility and health of the soil.

One might think that sand and gravel improve drainage, but the opposite is often the case. By interlocking with particles of the existing soil, especially clay, these materials can form a compact crust on the surface. This crust reduces the infiltration of water and air, which is essential for plants and the organisms in the soil that live in symbiosis with them.

This type of soil also makes germination more difficult and hinders the rooting of young plants. As a bonus, sand and gravel can accumulate the sun’s heat, causing the soil to overheat in summer.

In short, the result is drier, more compact soil… sometimes almost sterile.

Prevent, Maintain or Adapt

I don’t know of any miracle solution to the problem of sand and gravel accumulation. They won’t disappear by magic or by closing our eyes. As I see it, we have three options: prevent accumulation, maintain the affected areas, or adapt our space to this new reality.

That said, don’t feel obliged to act if there is no problem or if the accumulation is minimal. In some places, action may not be necessary, and that’s fine. I’m not trying to add to your workload every spring, on the contrary! The idea is to act only when necessary, where it is worthwhile.

Careful! I have noticed that protective covers seem to be multiplying in certain areas. As if, once someone has installed one, they reproduce and invade neighboring fields! A mysterious phenomenon…

Prevent

I have a confession to make. You know those famous lawn covers, those big green tarps that spring up in the fall along the edges of fields and along the sides of streets? Well… I find them terribly ugly! There, I’ve said it! I apologize to fans of protective covers, but I can’t help it. In a way, I almost wish it didn’t work so that we would stop using them… but I have to admit that they can be quite effective.

They are fairly simple to use: they are installed in the fall, when the lawn has stopped growing, just before the first snowfall. It is best to mow one last time, then collect the clippings (just this once!) to compost them or use them as mulch. Then all you have to do is unroll the cover over the area to be protected and secure it firmly with lawn staples, stakes or stones to prevent it from blowing away or moving under the weight of the snow.

It is important to remove the tarp as soon as the snow melts in the spring to prevent the lawn from suffocating and avoid fungal diseases.

Yes, it takes a bit of work (too much, for my taste!), but by removing the fabric in the spring, you also remove the sand and gravel that has accumulated over the winter, saving you the chore of cleaning.

Maintain

If you prefer not to use a protective cover, the other option is to clear away the accumulations of sand and gravel once spring has arrived. Ideally, you should wait a few weeks after the snow has melted, when the ground is no longer soggy (to avoid compacting it), but before the lawn starts growing actively again.

At this point, you have two options: manual or mechanical cleaning.

Manual Cleaning

The simplest method is often to use a leaf or lawn rake, which you probably already have, and a little elbow grease to sweep the debris towards the street or edge. Make sure you use a flexible tool so as not to damage the young grass shoots.

Mechanical Cleaning

If you want to work faster, there are several mechanical tools that can make the job easier, many of which are available for hire from specialist centers. Whether it’s a rotary power sweeper, a leaf vacuum or a blower, all these tools are effective as long as the floor is allowed to dry first. A floor that is too wet will not only be difficult to work on, but may also become compacted. And of course, wear safety goggles!

A workshop vacuum cleaner can also do the job if the surface to be cleaned is small.

That said, these tools are often noisy and some can damage the lawn. The rotary power sweeper can be difficult for some people to handle. In some cases, it would be preferable to call in a professional.

Regardless of the method used, it is important to be aware that this type of cleaning often results in the loss of organic matter, and even a little soil. To compensate, it is recommended that you add a thin layer of compost after cleaning, to nourish the soil and support the recovery of the lawn and maybe even reseed a little.

Coming Soon

Next week, we’ll be taking the idea a step further: I’ll be presenting street border planting strategies, with concrete examples of how to transform these ungrateful areas into little laidback gems!